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Everybody loves "Vera," since the flowers have extra-wide overlapping petals making each bloom a huge open splash of pink. This is one that always brings the ooohs and ahhhs.
Amaryllis How-To: Ever grown an amaryllis inside the house? It's a snap. There can be rain, cold or snow outside, but all you do is plant the bulb in a pot, water this "magic lily", and it zooms into growth. In just a few days, the stems arise, and in a few weeks the enormous flowers begin to open--huge lily blooms up to 8" across! (Each bulb produces one or two stems, each with 3 or 4 flowers!) Then you have the big show for over a month.
Planting Amaryllis: Choose a standard size flower pot, so the large bulb has approx. 1" around sides and at bottom. (These bulbs do not need much root space.) Use soil, or a mixture of soil, peat and perlite. (Do not use pine bark.) Place bulb so top inch or so of bulb sticks up out of the soil.
Watering:Water sparingly until the sprout is well out of the bulb. When first planted, place pot in sunny window, and add "bottom heat" if possible. Many do this by placing pot on a radiator. Once sprout appears, water regularly, but do not overwater. Your amaryllis will grow quickly and produce its spectacular huge flowers. Remember to keep turning the pot regularly to make the stalk grow straight as they have a tendency to grow towards the light. Once in flower, it's best to keep plant out of direct sunlight. Simply remove each flower as it fades. Your bulb will produce several flowers.
Aftercare: When all flowers are gone, cut off the tubular flower stems near the top of the bulb, leaving the foliage to continue growing. Water as usual and apply water-soluble fertilizer every four weeks. In spring, after danger of frost, sink the Amaryllis pot in the garden in a sunny place for the summer. Continue to fertilize. At the end of the summer, place the pot on its side and allow the soil to dry out. Cut off the dry leaves, and in about six weeks repot your bulb in fresh potting soil and start the growing cycle again.
|Zones||1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10|
|Ships As||Bulb, Rhizome, Tuber|
|Mature Height||20-24" tall|
|Bulb Size||34/+ cm|
|Planting Depth||Place bulb so top inch or so of bulb sticks up out of the soil.|
|Bloom Time||Winter: 6-10 weeks after planting.|
|Days to Bloom||6-10 weeks after planting.|
|Flower Size||Up to 8" flowers|
|Planting Time||Fall, Winter|
|Advantages||Containers, Easy to Grow, Forcing|
|Additional Information||Hardy in zones 9-11.|
|Ships to Hawaii, Alaska & Canada||No|
Open the box right away and check the contents
Choose a standard size flower pot, so the large bulb has approximately 1" around the sides and at the bottom (these bulbs do not need much root space). Amaryllis do not need specific soil, however we suggest using soil, or a mixture of soil, peat and perlite (do not use pine bark, as it may encourage rot). Place the bulb so the top inch or so of the shoulders sticks up out of the soil (see below)
Water very sparingly until the sprout is well out of the bulb. When first planted, place the pot in a sunny , and add "bottom heat" if possible. Many people do this by placing the pot on a radiator. Once the sprout appears, water regularly, but do not overwater. Overwatering is the quickest way to kill amaryllis. Your amaryllis will grow quickly and produce its spectacular huge flowers with minimal care.
Remember to keep turning the pot regularly to make the stalk grow straight, as they have a tendency to grow toward the light. Once the bulb is flowing, it is best to keep the plant out of direct sunlight. Your bulb will produce several flowers on each stalk and most will grow two or three stalks. Remove each flower as it fades.
After winter bloom, if you want to rebloom your amaryllis, it's quite simple. When blooms fade, cut off the tubular flower stems near the top of the bulb, leaving the foliage to continue growing.
Water as usual and apply water-soluble fertilizer every four weeks. Once spring arrives and frost is past, sink the Amaryllis pot in the garden in a sunny place. Continue to fertilize. At the end of the summer when frost threatens, simply pull the pot out of the ground, wash it out, and take it inside, and allow it to dry out completely in a warm dry place like a utility room. Once the leaves are dead and the bulb dry (usually 5 to 6 weeks), the bulb is ready for repotting. Simply cut off the dry leaves, and repot your bulb in fresh potting soil and start the growing cycle again.
Shipping begins in mid October.
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To determine if a plant is sufficiently cold hardy, the USDA created numbered zones indicating winter low temperatures; the lower the zone number the colder the winter.
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