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Japanese Iris Center of Interest

Large, 8” violet-colored blooms are brushed with white and yellow, making Center of Interest a must-have in any garden. Like other Japanese Irises, this variety is deer-resistant and prefers full sun. (Iris ensata)

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Zones: 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9
Plant Size: 32-35" tall, 24-28" wide
Light: Full Sun
Bloom Time: Early to mid summer
Shipping: Shipping begins in late March based on ground temperatures, warmest zones first.

Click Here for more details, product description, reviews, how-to guides and shipping information.

Blue and Purple Japanese Iris Center of Interest, Iris ensata, Japanese Iris
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Common Name Japanese Iris
Botanical Name Iris ensata
Zones 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9
Light Requirements Full Sun
Flower Color Blue, Purple
Mature Height 32-35" tall
Estimated Mature Spread 24-28" wide
Bloom Time Early to mid summer
Planting Depth Plant so that the top of the root is 1" below the soil line.
Ships As Bare Root
Planting Time Spring / Summer
Soil Type Clay Soil, Loamy Soil, Moist/Wet Soil
Soil Moisture Average, Moist/Wet
Advantages Deer Resistant, Attract Hummingbirds, Bee Friendly, Cut Flowers
Ships to Canada No
Our Master Gardeners Suggest Pairing With:

The beautiful and easy-to-grow Japanese Irises: Though theyre sometimes overshadowed by the larger Bearded Irises, many gardeners think the Japanese types are the most beautiful. First, lets dispel the confusion that surrounds this group:

Kaempferi, Butterfly, or Japanese? Even this groups name is confused. Once they were known as Kaempferi Irises, today many call them The Butterfly Irises, but the correct common name is simply Japanese Iris. This group are cultivars of the species Iris ensata, cultivated in Japan for over 500 years, and once restricted to enjoyment by royalty only.

No, theyre not water dwellers. Many people think Japanese Irises are for growing in the water in ponds, but they are not. They require about the same conditions as ferns, astilbes or impatiens--just moist ground, which most all gardeners can easily provide.

The Flowers: As you can see by the photos, these iris blooms are quite different from the tall stand-up flowers of the big Bearded Irises. The standards (the top layer of petals) stand up tall on the Bearded Irises, and the falls (the lower layer of petals) droop elegantly. With Japanese Irises, both sets of petals are more flat, forming a simpler, flatter--and many think more beautiful--flower.

Growing Japanese Irises: Unlike the big bearded iris, which are planted in late summer, Japanese types are usually planted in spring. (They are some of the most popular Beardless irises, along with the Siberians and Louisianas.) They form large lavish clumps and are highly decorative, blooming in late summer. Theyre also great for cutting. They definitely deserve a place in your garden.

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How-To Guides

Bearded Iris Planting Guide

All About Irises

The "Other" Irises: Siberian, Japanese, Louisianas

Bearded Iris Planting & Care

Bearded iris, Iris germanica, is a hardy, long-lived perennial that require a minimum of maintenance. The flowers have six petals; three upright petals (called standards) and three hanging petals (called falls). A fuzzy line or beard runs down the middle of each fall. Flowers come in many colors including blue, pink, purple, reddish, white, yellow, and bi-colors. Most bearded iris flower in the spring (April to June depending on cultivar), but some of the new cultivars re-flower in the summer and fall. The second flower display is not as showy as the spring display but last into the fall. Many re-blooming iris are fragrant.

Bearded irises are classified into several types: miniature dwarf (height 8 inch or less, 1 to 2 inch diameter flowers), standard dwarf (height 8 to 15 inches), intermediate (height 16 to 27 inches), miniature tall (height 16 to 25 inches, small flowers), border (height 16 to 27 inches), and tall (height 28 to 38 inches). The shorter iris flower first, followed by the intermediate, and then the taller irises.

Growth Habit

Iris have thick, fleshy, underground stems (called rhizomes) that store food produced by the sword-shaped, semi-evergreen leaves. The rhizomes grow best when planted at or slightly below the soil surface with feeder roots penetrating the soil below. Each year underground offsets develop from the original rhizome. Buds produce a large fan of leaves and several flower stalks. Success with iris depends on keeping the rhizomes firm and healthy. In general, this is done by providing the rhizome good drainage while the feeder roots below remain moist but not wet.

Site Selection and Preparation

A full sun exposure is preferred; however, some of the delicate pink and blue iris hold their color better in partial shade. Excessive shade will reduce or prevent flowering. Good soil drainage is essential to prevent rhizomes from rotting. It may be necessary to plant the rhizomes in raised beds (at least 6 inches high) to obtain proper drainage.

Iris will grow in many soil types but a light, loamy soil with a pH of 6 to 7 that has been amended with organic matter is preferred. A tight clay soil may keep the rhizome too wet and should have organic matter (pine bark, compost) incorporated to improve drainage. Manure is not usually recommended for iris but can be used if well-rotted and incorporated at least 6 inches deep into the bed (should not come in contact with rhizomes).

Fertilization of iris is important to obtain best results, but must be done in moderation. Nitrogen, potash, and phosphorus are essential for iris, but excessive nitrogen promotes lush growth that is more susceptible to rot diseases. At planting, incorporate ½ lb of a low-nitrogen fertilizer such as 5-10-10 per 50 ft2 (1 ½ oz per 10 ft2). Taking and following the results of a soil test is the preferred method to determine fertilizer amounts.


The best time to plant bearded iris is July through September. This will allow them to become well established before winter. Container-grown iris can be planted in the spring. In a well-prepared bed, dig a shallow hole large enough to accommodate the rhizome or clump of rhizomes. Form a mound of soil in the center for the planting base. Make the mound high enough so the top of the rhizome is slightly above soil level. Spread the roots around the mound, fill with soil, and water. For a mass of color, plant at least three rhizomes (spaced 8 to 10 inches apart) or plant undivided clumps; point each fan of leaves away from the center of the group. Clumps should be spaced 18 inches apart. Mulch should be applied to fall-planted iris to reduce heaving during the winter.

Care and Maintenance

Before flowering, water plants often enough to keep the soil moist but not wet. Re-blooming iris should be watered during the summer, while spring-flowering iris will tolerate drought. After flowers fade, cut flower stalks back to an inch or two above the rhizome to prevent seed formation. Plants that are growing well (good green foliage) may not need fertilizing. If you fertilize, apply ½ cup of 5-10-10 fertilizer per iris clump after flowering. Fertilizer can burn the rhizomes; it should be applied around but not directly on them. Reblooming iris should be fertilized in the spring as new growth begins and after spring flowering ends. Iris respond to shallow (1 to 2 inches) cultivation and should not be mulched. In early fall, cut leaves 6 to 8 inches from the ground, especially if foliage disease occur.

After 3 to 5 years, iris generally become crowded and should be divided. Iris can be divided any time, but many growers prefer to divide 4 to 6weeks after the flowering period. Cut the leaves to one-third their length. Dig the clump and wash soil off with a hose. Cut rhizomes apart so that each section has at least one healthy fan of leaves and firm, white roots. Older rhizomes may seem firm but should be discarded since they have limited flowering capacity.

Common Bearded Iris Problems

Poor flowering -- is normally due to planting in excessive shade, using excessive nitrogen fertilizer, or planting the rhizomes too deep. Limited flowering may also occur if plants become too crowded and need dividing.

Bacterial soft rot -- is the most serious iris disease. Bacteria enter through injuries or cuts to the rhizome. Soft rot causes the rhizomes to become mushy and have a disagreeable odor. Use of fresh manure or excess nitrogen, coupled with poor drainage, contribute to soft rot development. Dig up and destroy diseased rhizomes. If the rot is not extensive, cut off and destroy diseased plant parts.

Crown rot fungus -- causes a rot at the base of leaves where they join the rhizome and causes them to fall over. It is identified by reddish-brown "mustard seeds" which are produced by the fungus. Trim leaves to admit more sunlight and air movement to the rhizomes; carefully remove and destroy all diseased leaves.

Leaf spots -- After flowering, leaves may become dotted with small, brown spots. Bacterial leaf spot has a watery, streaked appearance. Water-soaked margins around the spot turn yellow. Fungal leaf spots are rust-colored, drier, and more confined. Since disease organisms overwinter on old foliage, cut and destroy leaves of infected plants in the fall. Spray with a registered fungicide during extended periods of high humidity or rainy seasons.

Mosaic -- is a viral disease that causes a mottling of leaves and flowers. It is transmitted by aphids. Remove and destroy infected plants and control aphids.

Iris borer -- The first symptoms of iris borers are small notches on the leaf edge or small accumulation of sawdust frass in early spring. Iris later develop loose, rotted bases and holes in rhizomes. Bacterial soft rot readily attacks borer-infested plants. Carefully remove and destroy old leaves, stems, and plant debris in the fall. A registered insecticide can be applied to the rhizomes in the spring as new growth occurs.

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Shipping begins in late March based on ground temperatures, warmest zones first.

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As soon as your order is placed you will receive a confirmation email. You will receive a second email the day your order ships telling you how it has been sent. Some perennials are shipped as potted plants, some as perennial roots packed in peat.  The ‘Details’ tab describes how that item will ship. All perennials and spring-planted bulbs are packaged to withstand shipping and are fully-guaranteed. Please open upon receipt and follow the instructions included.

Perennials and spring-planted bulbs are shipped at the proper planting time for your hardiness zone. Perennial and spring-planted bulb orders will arrive separately from seeds. If your order requires more than one shipment, there is no additional shipping charge. See our Shipping Information page for approximate ship dates and more detailed information. If you need express shipping or have any questions, please call Customer Service toll-free at (877) 309-7333 or Contact Us by email.

Our Master Gardeners Suggest Pairing With: