How To Start Wildflower Seeds Indoors
Posted By American Meadows Content Team on May 17, 2018 · Revised on Oct 3, 2025
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Posted By American Meadows Content Team on May 17, 2018 · Revised on Oct 3, 2025
Many flower varieties, like Sweet Peas shown above, can be started from seed. This gives seedlings a head start weeks before the last frost date to help grow healthier plants, extend the season, and save money on plugs from the garden center. Although many seeds can be sown directly on bare soil in the spring or the fall, some wildflower varieties fare better being started weeks before the ground warms up. We’ll go over some of the most common and successful ways to start seeds both indoors and out, as well as give our favorite tools for the job.
Even though you may be successful direct sowing wildflower seed, there are a variety of reasons why it makes sense to start seeds indoors:
There are some seeds that are recommended to start indoors, including smaller seeds and those that need a little extra heat to germinate. Smaller seeds often need to be 'thinned' after they sprout, which is a much easier task indoors at the table then it is outside on your hands and knees. Larger seeds and those with fragile root systems should be sown directly in the ground. There are a few varieties that can be started indoors for earlier blooms or directly sown, it just depends on your preference:
Direct Sow:
Start Indoors:
Direct Sow Or Start Indoors, depending on your preference:
There are so many tools available to help with seed starting, althought the majority of them are unnecessary for the resourceful gardener. All you really need is a good vessel to plant the seeds, good seed-starting or germinating mix, and a warm, sunny spot. That being said, here are some of our favorite tools to successfully start flowers from seed:

From left to right, different pots to use for starting seeds: plastic cell packs, peat pots, egg cartons, newspaper pots, soil blocks.

Good seed starting soil, a trowel, and a spray bottle are very helpful when starting seeds.


1. Look at your last frost date (find your Frost Dates here) and check the recommendation for how many weeks before this you should sow your seeds. Varieties like Snapdragons can take upwards of 6-8 weeks to grow before the last frost, whereas varieties like Cosmos and Zinnias should be planted just 3-4 weeks before the last frost date.
2. Seeds with hard shells, such as Milkweed, may need to be cold stratified, scarified or soaked before planting. Learn how to Scarify Seeds here. Learn how to Cold Stratify Seeds here.Â
3. Add water to your soil and mix it with your hands. You want the soil to be moist enough that it can be formed into a ball, but not too wet that it isn’t solid. If you don't pre-wet the soil mix, you may notice that water simply runs off the top and doesn't soak in as you'd like.
4. Place your soil in your cells (plastic, peat, newspaper, or egg carton). Pack the soil down with your fingers, add more, and pack it down again. You want to make sure the soil is compact and comes almost to the top of your cell.
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5. Spread out your seeds on a small dish to easily pick one up at a time. A small white plate works great as it’s easy to find the seeds!
6. Plant your seeds according to the recommended depth. Most seeds should be placed directly on top of the soil with just a light dusting covering them. We recommend planting two seeds per cell. This ensures you’ll at least have one seed germinate and if both do, you can remove the weaker seedling once they are an inch high.
7. Water from below into the tray. The holes in the bottom of each cell will allow the plant roots to wick up water as needed.

8. Add a plant marker to the tray so you don’t get your varieties mixed up. You can use popsicle sticks or wooden markers you can find at the garden center.
9. Cover with a plastic dome or saran wrap - humidity withh help speed up germination.
10. Find the best spot to place your seeds. A warm, sunny spot indoors is the perfect place to place your trays. If you don’t have direct sun, simply use a grow light. Just be sure that your light is positioned close (within 6 inches) of your seedlings so that they remain short and stout and don't become leggy from trying to reach for the light. This means that you'll need to move your light source frequently, as plants begin to grow. Place on a heat mat if you have one, or place on top of your refrigerator (or in a warm area of your home).


Once there is no more danger of frost in your area, it’s time to plant your seedlings outdoors! Whether you’re planting in containers or directly in the ground, you’ll still want to make sure there is no more chance of frost in your area.
One of the most important steps to ensuring your seedlings grow into healthy plants outdoors is to harden them off before you plant them. Hardening off is a gradual process where you acclimate your seedlings into the harsher sunlight and temperatures outdoors so they don’t get shocked from the different growing conditions:
Use a wheelbarrow or garden cart will be helpful in hardening off your seeds, bringing them outdoors for a few hours each day to get acclimated to outdoor temperatures.
Your seedlings should be acclimated to the weather outside through the hardening off process and will start to take off in your garden beds or containers! Remember to keep the new plants watered regularly and keep an eye on them for the first few weeks. Once you’ve started seeds once, you’ll get the hang of it and many of your tools (including plastic trays, cells, and domes) can be used year after year. Simply wash them in a diluted water/bleach solution to disinfect before planting the next season.
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Want to learn more about planting vegetable seeds indoors? Check out How To Start Vegetable Seeds Indoors